36 Hours in Venice

Being the subject of literature, paintings, songs, and movies, there’s a reason Venice has held tight to its romance after more than a millennium. The city rises out of the Venetian Lagoon like a mosaic mirage of culture and mystery and is the perfect place to visit in the off-season with one or two friends.

DAY ONE

09:00 Explore Doge’s Palace

In a tourist city like Venice, it’s best to reserve tickets ahead of time and visit earlier in the morning. Starting with Doge’s Palace is a crash course into the rich history of Venice and the Venetian Empire to contextualise the rest of your trip. The Palace is beautiful, with some of the best views and paintings, and is neatly organised. 

12:30 Lunch at Ca Dolfin

After hiking through the Palace, treat yourself to pasta accompanied with a spritz or bellini at Ca Dolfin. Ca Dolfin can get packed and is in a busy square, yet it is a small and intimate environment with friendly staff for a lowkey lunch. Sip (don’t shoot) limoncello with your bill. As you walk through Venice, stop by open chapels and churches for a taste of the city’s architectural diversity. 

14:00 Explore the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Enjoy the longer walk to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, which takes you through Venice to Peggy Guggenheim’s former home. The beautiful building, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, is on the Grand Canal and has an impressive selection of works from prominent Italian futurists and American modernists, many from Guggenheim’s personal collection. Look over the Grand Canal from the balcony while you’re visiting. 

20:00 Dinner with a Cicchetti Crawl

Cicchetti are small snacks, traditionally served in a Venetian bacari or osteries (similar to wine bars), that are similar to Spanish tapas. A Cicchetti crawl offers the chance to try different types in different atmospheres, all with a glass of wine or spritz. A small glass of ombra, a local white wine, is the most traditional. 

22:00 Night Out at Bacaro Jazz

Admittedly not the most authentic experience, Bacaro Jazz is still a fun way to finish your day with a drink or two. The atmosphere at Bacaro Jazz is difficult to summarise, but it will provide you with a good laugh. Expect a bra-bejeweled ceiling and YouTube karaoke videos.

DAY TWO

09:00 Explore St. Mark’s Basilica

If you didn’t go too hard at Baraco the night before, rise early and get a rare glimpse at Byzantine art in the breathtaking St Mark’s Basilica. The building appears as an ethereal sun space, with its spellbinding golden ceilings and elaborate marble floors. If you need a second to decompress after, sit for a while in the Royal Gardens.

12:00 Lunch at Acqua e Mais

Fritto misto is an assortment of fried seafood and the Venetian staple can be found at Acqua e Mais, where they fry it in front of you, alongside providing an array of other authentic street foods to sample. Located in the area of San Polo, close to the Rialto Bridge and Fish Market, the neighbourhood is fun to wander following your lunch. The area is also the cheapest way to get your gondola experience via the nearby gondola ferry that crosses the Grand Canal. Although the ride is short, the €2 fee is much easier to swallow than the €100 fee elsewhere. 

13:00 Explore Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo

Nearby, find the Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo, a museum of the traditional ways of life in Palazzos during the height of Venice for an influential family. An interesting mix of exhibits on traditional life, the history of perfumery in Venice, and some modern art, this small museum is a good perspective compared to the larger museums. Stop and stare at the Murano glass chandeliers through the house. 

18:30 Dinner at Ristorante Diana

Weather permitting, sit down for dinner al fresco at Ristorante Diana. Getting Spaghetti al Nero di Seppia at some point during your trip is a must. The pasta is cooked in squid ink to create a signature dark black colour, which can be intimidating. The brave who are willing to give it a try are in for a reward, as it is a special treat that is difficult to find elsewhere.

20:00 Night Out in Venice

If you still have room after dinner, find gelato for dessert. Otherwise, two very separate options await you. Stop in at The Irish Pub Venezia for a pint of Super Tenants or Guinness if you’ve had enough spritz. Alternatively, Harry’s Bar is an iconic institution in Venice that is internationally famous with past clientele including Ernest Hemingway, Charlie Chaplin, and George Clooney. Harry’s Bar is not cheap, but their famous bellini was worth shelling out for the high price tag. 

DAY THREE 

09:00 Pastries at Pasticceria Bar Targa

Take in the city one last time at Pasticceria Bar Targa with a coffee and a sfogliatelle before catching the bus or boat back to the airport. While you watch Venice start its day, you’ll likely find yourself either discussing your next trip to this jewel in the Adriatic Sea or scrolling through your favourite photos — providing that you successfully fought off the pickpockets.

Image from Wikimedia Commons